Have you ever heard of a temple that once rotated on a pillar and faces west instead of east?
So let’s talk about Chhatrari village, about 48 km from Chamba town in Himachal Pradesh, where the famous Chhatrari Devi Temple, also known as Maa Shiv Shakti Mandir, stands. Built in the 8th century, it is among the oldest temples in Himachal Pradesh. At an altitude of nearly 6,000 feet in the Himalayas, this temple is more than just a place of worship—it is a blend of legends, exquisite craftsmanship, and timeless devotion that continues to draw both pilgrims and historians.

A Temple That Once Rotated on a Pillar

One of the most fascinating aspects of the Chhatrari Devi Temple is the belief that it was originally constructed to rotate on a pillar. According to folklore, master craftsman Gugga Mistri, who built the temple, was confused about the direction of its entrance. When he sought divine guidance, Goddess Shiv Shakti instructed him to rotate the temple until it stopped naturally. The temple’s door eventually faced west—an unusual orientation since most Hindu temples face east. This westward entrance is still considered a divine order and remains one of the temple’s unique features.

Historical Roots and Construction

The temple was built around 780 B.C. during the reign of King Meru Verman of Bharmour. Gugga Mistri, a legendary craftsman, is credited with its construction. Despite having only one functional hand, he was said to have built this magnificent structure through the blessings of the goddess.

Another popular legend tells that before constructing the Chhatrari temple, Gugga Mistri had built a spectacular palace. To prevent him from replicating such brilliance elsewhere, one of his hands was chopped off. Saddened, he stopped at Chhatrari during his journey, where the goddess appeared in his dream and commanded him to build a temple. Empowered by divine strength, Gugga completed this extraordinary work.

The temple is primarily built of wood, with beautiful carvings that reflect ancient craftsmanship. Its sanctum and original pillars are still intact, while much of the roof and surrounding masonry were restored after the 1905 earthquake. Pre-earthquake records describe a flat gabled roof, later replaced with a pyramidal design.

The Main Idol of Shakti

The presiding deity of the temple is Shakti Devi, represented by a striking idol of Ashtadhatu (an alloy of eight metals). Crafted by Gugga himself, the idol is about 4 feet 6 inches tall and is a masterpiece of early Himalayan art. The goddess is depicted in a slender form, wearing a transparent lehenga, adorned with a belt, scarf, necklace, earrings, armlets, pearls, and a diadem.

In her four hands, she holds:

• A lance (symbol of power and energy)
• A lotus (symbol of life and purity)
• A bell (representing space and sound)
• A snake (symbolizing death and time)

This depiction beautifully captures the essence of Shiv Shakti, the eternal cosmic energy.

Legends Associated with Chhatrari

Several legends enrich the cultural memory of this temple:

1. The Streams of Chhatrari
   Once, a Mahatma and his disciples came to the temple for penance. When a disciple went to fetch water but never returned, the Mahatma discovered he had been killed by a bear. Enraged, the sage struck the ground with his trident 36 times, creating 36 streams of water. This is how the place came to be known as Chhatrari.
2. The Symbol of Gugga Mistri
   After completing the temple, Gugga wished for salvation and is believed to have died by falling from its roof. In remembrance, a bird figure was carved inside the temple, symbolizing his soul.
3. Demon-Slaying Goddess
   The goddess is revered as the destroyer of demons. Even today, demon masks are preserved in the temple as symbols of her triumph over evil.

Festivals and Rituals

Chhatrari Devi Temple holds immense religious importance, especially during Manimahesh Yatra. On the third day of the yatra, devotees bring sacred water from Manimahesh Lake to bathe the idol in an elaborate ritual, reinforcing the spiritual connection between the lake and the temple.

Another major celebration is the fair on Radha Ashtami. Held in the temple courtyard, the festival brings together local artists who showcase Himachal’s rich cultural traditions through music, dance, and performances.

Artistic and Cultural Significance

Apart from its legends, the temple is a treasure of ancient Indian art. The pillars around the sanctum are intricately carved and demonstrate exceptional craftsmanship. The sanctum entrance is adorned with depictions of major deities, including Shiva, Vishnu, Indra, Vayu, Varuna, and Kartikeya, along with river goddesses Ganga and Yamuna and the Navagrahas.

The temple also houses remnants of murals and frescoes, some depicting scenes from the Ramayana and the life of Krishna. Though many are faded, they suggest the temple was once vividly painted, giving it both spiritual and aesthetic grandeur.

Conclusion

The Chhatrari Devi Temple stands as more than just a place of worship. It is a repository of faith, history, legend, and art. From the unique story of its rotating structure and west-facing entrance to the craftsmanship of Gugga Mistri and the divine idol of Shakti, every element of this temple narrates a tale of devotion and heritage. Even today, it continues to inspire awe among pilgrims, historians, and art lovers, preserving its timeless legacy in the lap of Himachal’s sacred hills.